The Cooper Collection is a new premium denim line from Lee Cooper, Britain’s oldest denim brand. Designed by Tillman Wröbel, it’s made out of Italian selvage denim. The Document celebrates the collection launch but also looks at denim in general, investigating its workwear history and sub-cultural connotations.
The Document features an interview with Hot Chip singer Alexis Taylor, talking about the relationship between music and denim, and a piece on Aki Iwasaki, Red Wing’s head designer, and the connection between workwear boots and raw denim. We also went to Newcastle and interviewed Nigel Cabourn about FU’S, a collaborative line we designed with Lee Cooper for SS08, but that never made it to the shop floor.
Emma McClendon, curator at Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, takes an academic look at denim’s place in fashion, and we speak to famed French art director Jean-Paul Goude about his controversial Lee Cooper ads from the 1980s. Men’s File editor Nick Clements shot and filmed a fashion story for us, and artist Lucas Price was commissioned to create a denim triptych inspired by the attitude and energy of a teenager’s denim jacket.
Writers: Andy Thomas, Emma McClendon, Jamie Millar, Josh Sims, Lena Dystant and Lucas Price
Photographers: Barbara Anastacio, Dominic Davies, Dunja Opalko, James McNaught, Jasper Fry, Jean-Paul Goude, Karl Hab, Ko Tsuchiya, Liz Seabrook, Nick Clements, Piotr Niepsuj and Tec Petaja
Designed by Mark Thompson
The Gap Document looks closer at the history and products of the American apparel brand. Going back in its history, and investigating the sartorial landscape of the late 60s, early 70s when Gap was born, helped set the tone for what we think identify and sums up the brand today.
With the help of Business of Fashion’s Tim Blanks, Dries Van Noten collaborator Nancy Rohde and Shinsuke Takizawa from Neighborhood we trace the importance of Gap from 1969 all the way up to present day. We enlisted Lou Dalton, Alastair Rae from Albam, Jockum Hallin from Our Legacy, Paul Harvey from CP Company and Donwan Harrell from PRPS to highlight five Gap staples: T-shirts, jeans, chinos, field jackets and shirts. Street photographer Mister Mort documented the beauty of the everyday uniform on the streets of New York, and Christopher Raeburn created a Gap-inspired jacket using denim and cotton twill.
Writers: Lou Stoppard, Dr Rebecca Arnold, Jason Jules and Josh Sims
Photography: Brian W Ferry, Clement Jolin, Jack Davison, James Pearson-Howes, Kasia Bobula, Laurence Ellis, Mordechai Rubinstein, Piotr Niepsju, Sam A Harris and Wai Lin Tse
Designed by Mark Thompson
The Kickers Document celebrates the 40th anniversary of the Kick Hi boot. Arguably Kickers’ most famous boot silhouette, over the years the footwear staple has been seen on rebellious school kids and pop stars alike. The sub-cultural icon has infiltrated pop culture from underneath, and today it’s recognised in most parts of the world.
Document Studios was tasked with telling the Kick Hi’s story from its unique editorial point of view. An interview with i-D stylist Simon Foxton (who has collaborated with Kickers) and retrospective text and shoot about Christopher Shannon’s four seasons long partnership with Kickers helped cement the brand’s fashion credentials. Essays from Dean Mayo Davies and Daryoush Haj-Najafi contextuliased the boot in terms of 20th century fashion history, while Pelle Crepin’s main line shoot was all about showing how the Kick Hi boot in a modern and contemporary light.
Photographers: Pelle Crepin and James Pearson-Howes
Writers: Dean Mayo Davies, David Hellqvist and Daryoush Haj-Najafi
Commissioned by Timberland, we set out to capture the true spirit of the brand. Documenting the history and story of Timberland, the limited edition book looked closer at Timberland’s sub-cultural history.
Through photography and interviews, pop-cultural icons, such as Visvim’s Hiroki Nakamura, Gary Aspden, Ronnie Fieg and Stussy’s Nick Bower, offered their point of view of the brand, while designers like Patrik Ervell, Martine Rose and Soulland’s Silas Adler shared their personal experiences of the brand.
Three shoots told the visual story of the Abington range, the modern day Paninaro look, and the top ten best Timberland collaboration boots.
Photographers: Samuel Bradley, Pelle Crepin, George Harvey. Piotr Niepsuj, Karl Hab, Jerry Buttles, Ross Trevail, Abdellah Ihadian and Nathaniel Wood
Writers: Lena Dystant, Jason Dike, Nick Schonberger, Neil Summers and Jason Jules